Surfing!!!!

I finally got to go Surfing! I went out with Max, Rebecca, Shelby and Lindon. We went over to a Beach named Castles. I'm surprised at how many people here have never even heard of it. It's a really open beach with good waves for light surfing.
Max volunteered to be my teacher! Thankfully! Don't know what I would have done without him. I rode this huge blue foam board while Max rode the little one. (Bigger they are, the less experienced you are apparently). But I was totally okay with that. Anyway, before we actually went out in the water, he taught me how to stand up on the board. You put your hands in front of you and push your self on to one knee. Then they foot that is still back stays in the back as you stand. Simple enough right? So then we headed out. Paddling out wasn't as hard as Max said it would be. (Must have been my swimming experience) Lol. Once we were pretty far out, Max sat up on his board and told me to paddle when he told me to, towards shore, and then stand when he shouted me to stand. (So basically just listen for his voice and do everything in order). So while we waited for a wave, Max taught me the spiritual connections of surfing. It was extremely touching. lol. He's very passionate about Surfing, but now I can see why... it's unlike anything else I've tried.
Finally a wave came. Max pushed me and told me to paddle like crazy. So I did. Suddenly the wave pushed me towards the shore really fast. Max screamed for me to stand. I pushed myself up, and all of a sudden, I WAS SURFING! I stood up on my first time! I got so excited, that I lost control of the board and fell.... but it was great while it lasted!
We surfed for about three to four hours. During that time, I managed to stand up a couple of times and stay up for a long time. I also saw lots of turtles swimming around me as I was paddling back out! That was really neat. On a negative note, I cut my foot on a rock and Max hit me in the head with his board. Lol. But otherwise it was great! At the end of the day, I realized I was super sunburnt on my face and on my back. Everything else was totally fine though! My back was burnt, but not my upper back, it was my lower back. I was totally wearing a modest swimsuit! But, it was still a two piece, and getting knocked around by waves sometimes made it rise a little, so I have this small stripe of red right on my back next to my trunk line. It's kind of funny! Plus, my hips and ribs are sore from laying on the board. But it's a small price to pay while having fun! I absolutely loved it! I plan on going out a lot more now! Thank goodness for Seek, Max and Shez Hannemann! They'll take me out anytime!